Jo’s Way · Thanksgiving Series, Episode 1
These are the mashed potatoes I make every Thanksgiving, and culinary school is what finally fixed them. The secret isn’t more butter. It’s how you mash. Riced Yukon Golds, warm cream infused with sage and bay, and a pour of nutty brown butter on top make them silky and rich without being heavy. This is the side everyone goes back for.
Adapted from Katie’s recipe (@babytomagoo).
The Italian way vs. your grocery store: In Italy, purè is a contorno, a simple side served with a roast. It’s seasoned with nutmeg and finished with Parmigiano, so I do both here. Everything else comes from a regular grocery store.
INGREDIENTS
For the potatoes
4½ lb (2 kg) Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
1 tbsp kosher salt, for the cooking water, plus more to taste
1 bay leaf
For the infused cream
1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream
2 bay leaves
4–5 fresh sage leaves
2–3 garlic cloves, smashed
1–2 sprigs fresh thyme
½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
For the mash
¼ cup (57 g) salted butter, melted
¼ cup (60 g) sour cream, room temperature
¼–½ cup (60–120 ml) buttermilk, room temperature
½ cup (40 g) Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated (optional, but worth it)
1–2 tsp freshly cracked black pepper
For the brown butter and to finish
½ cup (113 g) salted butter
1–2 tbsp chives or thyme leaves, finely chopped
Instructions
1. Cook the potatoes. Choose one method.
Option 1 : Boil
Cut the potatoes into even chunks so they cook at the same rate.
Put them in a large pot with the salt and bay leaf, and cover with cold water by an inch.
Bring to a boil and cook until a knife slides through with no resistance (15-20 minutes).
Drain, then return the potatoes to the hot pot over low heat. Let the steam escape (1-2 minutes). Dry potatoes absorb more flavor.
Option 2: Bake (more flavor, no water logging)
(This intensifies the flavor and avoids waterlogging.)
Heat oven to 400°F.
Cut the potatoes into large chunks and toss with a little oil and salt.
Spread on a baking sheet and cover tightly with foil.
Bake until completely soft (45–60 minutes). They steam in their own starch, which concentrates the flavor.
2. Infuse the cream
While the potatoes are cooking:
Add the cream, bay leaves, sage, garlic, thyme, and nutmeg to a small saucepan.
Heat on low until steaming and fragrant (10–15 minutes). Don’t let it boil.
Strain out the aromatics and keep the cream warm.
3. Mash
Press the hot potatoes through a ricer or food mill into a large bowl. No ricer? Use a hand masher. Don’t use a hand mixer.
Fold in the melted butter first, until it’s absorbed.
Fold in the warm infused cream, then the sour cream and Parmiggiano.
Add the buttermilk a splash at a time until the potatoes are silky and soft enough to fall off the spoon.
Taste and season with salt and pepper.
4. Brown the butter
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring constantly. It will melt, foam, and then start to brown.
When it smells nutty and you see golden-brown flecks at the bottom (5-8 minutes), pour it into a heatproof bowl right away so it doesn’t burn.
5. Finish + serve
Make swirls in the top of the potatoes with the back of a spoon. Pour the brown butter into them and top with chives and more black pepper.
Jo’s Notes
The one mistake to avoid: Don’t whip potatoes with a hand mixer. The beaters burst the starch cells and turn the potatoes gluey. Then you end up adding more and more butter to fix a texture problem.
Culinary school tip: Add the butter before the cream. The fat coats the starch first, so you get a silkier mash with the same amount of butter.
Why Yukons: They’re naturally creamy and buttery. Russets are fluffy and absorb fat, so they need much more butter to taste rich.
Make ahead: Make the mash up to 2 days ahead and refrigerate. Reheat gently with a splash of warm cream, and brown the butter fresh just before serving.
Storage: Keeps 4 days in the fridge.
Serve It Like an Italian
In Italy, purè is served as a contorno with an arrosto (a roast), so it belongs right next to the turkey. It’s also great on a weeknight with roast chicken or braised short ribs.
